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On file with author.
2
Steinberg, Neil, Hatless Jack, New York: Plume 2004, pp. 227–229.
3
Percentage of Public Schools with Various Safety and Security Measures: Selection years, 1999–2000 through 2013–2014. National Center for Education Statistics, Digest of Education Statistics. https://nces.ed.gov/programs/digest/d15/tables/dt15_233.50.asp
4
Making an Appearance: U.S. Retail Dress Code Guidelines. Starbucks Corporation, 2014.
5
UBS Corporate Wear Dress Guide for Women and Men. UBS, 2010.
6
Chow, Jason. The Rules for Tuxedos. The Wall Street Journal. Dow Jones & Company, November 24, 2010. http://blogs.wsj.com/scene/2010/11/24/tuxedo-rules/.
7
Antonio. How to Wear a Tuxedo: A Man’s Guide to Black Tie. The Art of Manliness, December 17, 2013. http://www.artofmanliness.com/2013/12/17/black-tie-how-to-wear-tuxedo/.
8
Style Guide 2015. Style Guide 2015. Ascot: Royal Ascot, 2015. https://www.ascot.co.uk/sites/default/files/documents/RA 2015_Style Guide_FINAL.pdf.
9
Interview on file with author.
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Suitable Disruption. The Economist. The Economist Newspaper, 2014. https://www.economist.com/schumpeter/2014/08/04/suitable-disruption.
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Adam, Hajo, and Adam D. Galinsky. Enclothed Cognition. Journal of Experimental Social Psychology 48, no. 4 (2012): 918–25. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jesp.2012.02.008.
12
Slepian, Michael L., Simon N. Ferber, Joshua M. Gold, and Abraham M. Rutchick. The Cognitive Consequences of Formal Clothing. Social Psychological and Personality Science 6, no. 6 (2015): 661–68. https://doi.org/10.1177/1948550615579462.
13
Barthes, Roland, Richard Howard, and Matthew Ward. The Fashion System. London: Vintage, 2010.
14
Miller v. School District No. 167, Cook County, Illinois, 495 F 2d. 658 (7th Cir. 1974).
15
Ford, Richard, Racial Cultures: a critique. Princeton: Princeton, 2005, 205–206.
16
Legal Enforcement Guidance on Discrimination on the Basis of Gender Identity or Expression: Local Law No. 3 (2002); N.Y.C. Admin. Code § 8–102 (23). Legal Enforcement Guidance on Discrimination on the Basis of Gender Identity or Expression: Local Law No. 3 (2002); N.Y.C. Admin. Code § 8–102 (23). New York, NY, 2015.
17
EEOC v. Catastrophe Management Solutions, (11th Cir. 2016).
18
Hooper, Wilfrid. The Tudor Sumptuary Laws. The English Historical Review XXX, no. CXIX (1915): 433–49. https://doi.org/10.1093/ehr/xxx.cxix.433.
19
Buckley, Victoria. Mandillions and Netherstocks – Elizabethan Men and Their Dress. Shakespeare’s England, January 13, 2010. http://www.shakespearesengland.co.uk/2010/01/13/mandillions-netherstocks-elizabethan-men-their-dress/
20
Ibid.
21
Hooper, The Tudor Sumptuary Laws, 439.
22
Ibid., 441.
23
Ibid., 10–12.
24
Killerby, Catherine Kovesi. Sumptuary Law in Italy, 1200–1500. Oxford: Clarendon Press, 2005, 34.
25
Royal Proclamation, June 15, 1574, the 16th year of Elizabeth I.
26
Christopher Breward, The Culture of Fashion (1995), p.54.
27
Hunt, Alan. Governance of the Consuming Passions: A History of Sumptuary Law. New York: St. Martins Press, 1996.
28
Killerby, Sumptuary Law in Italy, 87.
29
Ibid., 24.
30
Ibid., 63.
31
Ibid., 73.
32
Ibid., 24–25.
33
Ibid., 81.
34
Ibid., 61; Machiavelli Niccolò, and Ezio Raimondi. Opere Di Niccolò Machiavelli. Milano: Mursia, 1983.
35
Killerby, Sumptuary Law in Italy, 38; Hunt, Governance of the Consuming Passions, 29–33.
36
Hunt, Governance of the Consuming Passions, 30–32.
37
Jones, Jennifer M. Sexing La Mode: Gender, Fashion and Commercial Culture in Old Regime France. Oxford: Berg, 2004, 31.
38
Roche at 335–345.
39
Cohn, Samuel K. Black Death, social and economic impact of the. In Bjork, Robert E. (ed.). The Oxford Dictionary of the Middle Ages. Oxford University Press, 2010.
40
Scheidel, Walter. The Great Leveler: Violence and the History of Inequality from the Stone Age to the Twenty-First Century. Princeton University Press, 2017.
41
Veblen, Thorstein. The Theory of the Leisure Class. Mentor, 1953, pp. 70, 119.
42
Mitch, David. Education and Skill of the British Labour Force. The Cambridge Economic History of Modern Britain, 2004, 332–56. https://doi.org/10.1017/chol9780521820363.013.
43
Hooper, The Tudor Sumptuary Laws.
44
Ibid.
45
Ibid., 436.
46
Ibid., 441
47
Ibid., 435–436.
48
Ibid., 439.
49
City Corporation Records, Jo. 18, fo. 283 b (1566); Jo. 20 (2), fo. 348 b (1577); Jo.21, fo. 19b (1579); Jo. 21, fo. 36 b (1580); cf. Malcolm, Londinium Btdivivum, ii. 60; Hooper p. 443.
50
Hooper, The Tudor Sumptuary Laws, 445.
51
Ibid., 440.
52
Ibid., 436.
53
More, Thomas. Utopia, pp.127, 133.
54
Ibid., 153.
55
Ibid., 153.
56
Ibid., 157.
57
Ibid., 159.
58
Hunt, Governance of the Consuming Passions, 37.
59
Davies, Glenys and Lloyd Llewellyn-Jones. A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion: Vol. 1, In Antiquity, The Body, 59.
60
Hollander, Anne. Sex and Suits the Evolution of Modern Dress. London: Bloomsbury, 2016.
61
Greenblatt, Stephen. Renaissance Self-Fashioning: from More to Shakespeare. 1980, 2.
62
Lipovetsky, Gilles, Catherine Porter, and Richard Sennett. The Empire of Fashion Dressing Modern Democracy. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 2002, 46–47.
63
See Foucault, Michel. Madness and Civilization; Discipline and Punish; The History of Sexuality, Vol. 1.
64
Hunt, Governance of the Consuming Passions, 68–69, 438.
65
See, e.g., Diana Crane, Diffusion Models and Fashion: A Reassessment, 566 ANNALS AM. ACAD. POL. & SOC. SCI. 13 (1999); George A. Field, The Status Float Phenomenon: The Upward Diffusion of Innovation, 13 BUS. HORIZONS 45 (1970).
66
Roche, Daniel. Apparences revolutionnaires ou revolution des apparences, in Madeleine Delpierre, ed., Modes&revolutions, 1780–1804 (Paris, 1989), 111.
67
Hughes, Diane Owen. Distinguishing Signs: Ear-Rings, Jews, and Franciscan Rhetoric in the Italian Renaissance City. Oxford, England: Past and Present Society, 1986.
68
Kuhns, Elizabeth. The Habit: a History of the Clothing of Catholic Nuns. New York: Doubleday, 2005, 58.
69
San Bernardino of Sienna, Opera ommia, ed. Collegio S. Bonaventura, 9 vols. (1950—65) p. 77.
70
Breward, Culture of Fashion, p. 37.
71
Chistopher Breward, The Culture of Fashion (1995), p. 36.
72
Diane Owen Hughes, Distinguishing Signs: Ear-rings, Jews and Franciscan Rhetoric in the Italian Renaissance City, Past and Present, No. 112 (1986), p. 25, 26, note 74 (citing Trattato degli ornamenti delle donne), (Treatise on the ornaments of women) Aniceto Chiappini ed.
73
Diane Owen Hughes, Distinguishing Signs: Ear-rings, Jews and Franciscan Rhetoric in the Italian Renaissance City, Past and Present, No. 112 (1986), p. 22.
74
Hughes. Distinguishing Signs, 22.
75
Ibid., 16.
76
Ibid., 16.
77
Ibid., 18.
78
Siena, Bernardino de. S. Bernardini Senensis Ordinis Fratrum Minorum Opera Omnia Iussu Et Auctoritate R.mi P. Augustini Sépinski. Sermones XXVII–LIII. Ad Claras Aquas (Quaracchi, Florentiae): Ex Typographia Collegii S. Bonaventurae, 1950–65.
79
Hughes. Distinguishing Signs, 28.
80
Ibid., 19.
81
Ibid., 11.
82
Sennett, Richard. Flesh and Stone. New York, NY: W.W. Norton, 1994, 240.
83
Ibid., 30.
84
Ibid., 27.
85
Hughes. Distinguishing Signs, 47.
86
Sennett. Flesh and Stone, 240.
87
Kuhns. The Habit, 3.
88
Ibid., 40
89
Ibid., 66.
90
Ibid.
91
Ibid., 93.
92
Ibid., 93.
93
Ibid.
94
Ibid., 16, 68; Bennett, Veronica, and Ryan (ill.) Todd. Looking Good: a Visual Guide to the Nuns Habit. London: GraphicDesign &, 2016, 24–25.
95
Ibid., 2.
96
Aherne, Consuelo Maria. Joyous Service: the History of the Sisters of Saint Joseph of Springfield. Holyoke, MA: Sisters of Saint Joseph, 1983; Michelman, Susan O. Fashion and Identity of Women Religious, in Religion, Dress and the Body, Linda B. Arthur ed. 1999, 137.
97
Kuhns. The Habit, 25.
98
Ibid., 93, 439.
99
Hills, H. The Veiled Body: Within the Folds of Early Modern Neapolitan Convent Architecture. Oxford Art Journal 27, no. 3 (January 2004): 269–90. https://doi.org/10.1093/oaj/27.3.269.
100
Ibid., 276.
101
Ibid., 284.
102
Ibid., 283.
103
Vargas Maciucca, Francesco. Degli Abuis introdotti ne monastery delle monache per le doti e per le spese che vogliono dale donzelle… e loro Riforma, Dissertazone scritta d’ordine degli Eccellentissi mi Signore Eletti di Napoli. 1745.
104
Hills. The Veiled Body, 278.
105
Kollar, Rene. A Foreign and Wicked Institution?: the Campaign Against Convents in Victorian England. Havertown: James Clarke & Co, 2014, 19–38.
106
Berman, Cassandra. Wayward Nuns, Randy Priests, and Women’s Autonomy: Convent Abuse and the Threat to Protestant Patriarchy in Victorian England, dissertation, Macalester College, May 1. 2006 (copy on file with author); Kuhns. The Habit, 120.
107
Kuhns. The Habit, 130.
108
Ibid., 130.
109
Ibid., 134.
110
Ibid., 138.
111
Modernizing Nun Habits, Life 33, no. 24. December 15, 1952.
112
Nuns to Wear New Garb by Dior. The New York Times. The New York Times, August 31, 1964. https://www.nytimes.com/1964/08/31/archives/nuns-to-wear-new-garb-by-dior.html.; Kuhns. The Habit, 145.
113
Kuhns. The Habit, 144.
114
Daly, Mary. The Church and the Second Sex. Boston: Beacon Press, 1985, 53.
115
Kuhns. The Habit, 156–7.
116
Ibid., 159–60.
117
Aquinas, Thomas. Prima Pars Secunde Partis Summe Theologie. Uenetijs impssa: P Andream de torresanis de Asula, Bartolemu de blauijs de Alexandria, Mapheum de peterbonis de salodio socios, 1483.
118
Bingen, Hildegard av. Scivias. New York: Paulist Press, 1990. (Book II, vision 6, 77).
119
Hollander. Sex and Suits, 45.
120
Hotchkiss, Valerie R. Clothes Make the Man Female Cross Dressing in Medieval Europe. New York: Routledge, 2012.
121
See, Killerby, Sumptuary Law in Italy; Hunt, Governance of the Consuming Passions.
122
Castiglione. The Book of the Courtier. (Book II, sections 11–12.)
123
Bennett, J. M., and S. Mcsheffrey. Early, Erotic and Alien: Women Dressed as Men in Late Medieval London. History Workshop Journal 77, no. 1 (October 2014): 1–25. https://doi.org/10.1093/hwj/dbt046, 10–13.
124
Ibid., 13.
125
Hall, Edward. Halls Chronicle: Containing the History of England, during the Reign of Henry the Fourth, and the Succeeding Monarchs, to the End of the Reign of Henry the Eighth, in Which Are Particularly Described the Manners and Customs of Those Periods. London: Printed for J. Johnson, 1809, 513.
126
Killerby. Sumptuary Law in Italy, p. 64.
127
Bennett and McSheffrey. Early, Erotic and Alien, 2.
128
Ibid., 3.
129
Chenoune, Farid, Richard Martin, and Deke Dusinberre. A History of Mens Fashion. Paris: Flammarion, 1995, 10.
130
J.C. Flugel, The Great Masculine renunciation and Its Causes, from The Psychology of Clothes, (1930) in Purdy, Daniel L. The Rise of Fashion: a Reader. Minneapolis, Minn: University of Minnesota Press, 2004.
131
Weber, Max. The Protestant Ethic and the Spirit of Capitalism: a Classic Study of the Fundamental Relationships between Religion and the Economic and Social Life in Modern Culture. New York: Scribner, 1958, 169.
132
Hollander, Anne. Sex and Suits the Evolution of Modern Dress. London: Bloomsbury, 2016, 80–81.
133
Chenoune, A History of Mens Fashion, 9.
134
Kuchta, David, The Three Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England 1550–1850, Berkeley, CA: University of California Press, 2002, 79.
135
SAUSSURE César de., and Berthold van. MUYDEN. Lettres Et Voyages De Monsr César De Saussure En Allemagne, En Hollande, Et En Angleterre, 1725–1729. Pp. xlvi. 390. Lausanne, 1903, 57–58.
136
Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Mens Clothes 1600–1900. London: Faber And Faber Limited, 1977, 105.
137
Chenoune, A History of Mens Fashion, 19.
138
Dogood, Silence. The New England Courant, June 11, 1972, 45 edition.
139
Zakim, Michael. Ready-Made Democracy: a History of Mens Dress in the American Republic, 1760–1860. Chicago, IL: University of Chicago Press, 2003, 21.
140
Ibid., 32.
141
Perrot, Philippe. Fashioning the Bourgeoisie: a History of Clothing in the Nineteenth Century. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1996, 20. (Le Moniteur universel, no 39, Ire decade de Brumaire, l’an II (30 October 1793)).
142
Flugel, 104.
143
Flugel, 104.
144
Zakim, Ready-Made Democracy, 203.
145
Anderson, Benedict. Imagined Communities: Reflections on the Origin and Spread of Nationalism. London: Verso, 1998.
146
The Act of Abolition and Proscription of the Highland Dress, 19 George II, cap 39, sec.17, 1746.
147
Heritable Jurisdictions (Scotland). Act 1746.
148
Scottish Culture and History: The Story of Tartan Day. The Royal Caledonian Society of South Australia, http://www.rcs.org.au/content/history/cultureandhistory/The%20Story%20of%20Tartan%20Day.pdf
149
Trevor-Roper, Hugh. The Highland Tradition of Scotland, in Hobsbawm, Eric John, and Terence Osborn. Ranger. The Invention of Tradition. Cambridge: Cambridge Univ. Pr., 1983, 23.
150
Ibid.
151
Ibid.
152
Ramsay, Allan. Tartana, 1718, http://www.tartansauthority.com/tartan/the-growth-of-tartan/the-origin-of-clan-tartans/a-case-for-clan-tartans/
153
Martin. A Description of the Western Islands of Scotland, (1703). http://www.tartansauthority.com/tartan/the-growth-of-tartan/the-origin-of-clan-tartans/thoughts-on-clan-tartans/
154
Trevor-Roper, 20. See also, Scarlett, James MBE. The Origin of Clan Tartans, Scottish Tartan Authority. (Whatever inferences enthusiastic protagonists may draw from the totally inadequate evidence, there is no clear reference to the use of tartan in the clan context before the 45 and the Clan Tartan Idea made rapid progress very soon after. There seems to be a strong probability that the Clan tartans are a direct legacy of the last Jacobite Rising.) http://www.tartansauthority.com/tartan/the-growth-of-tartan/the-origin-of-clan-tartans/
155
Trevor-Roper, 24. 441.
156
Ibid., 30.
157
Mudie, Robert. Historical Account of His Majesty’s Visit to Scotland. Edinburgh, 1822.
158
The Scottish Register of Tartans, https://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tartanDetails?ref=182
159
Purdy. The Rise of Fashion, 87.
160
Ibid., 88.
161
Ibid., 89.
162
Ibid., 76.
163
Ibid., 78. (Witte, Samuel Simon. An Anwer to the Question: Would it Be Harmful or Beneficial to Establish a National Uniform?)
164
Diderot, Denis. Encyclopedie Ou Dictionnaire Raisonne Des Sciences, Des Arts Et Des Metiers.
165
Kwass, Michael. Big Hair: A Wig History of Consumption in Eighteenth-Century France. The American Historical Review 111, no. 3 (January 2006): 631–59, 636. https://doi.org/10.1086/ahr.111.3.631.
166
Ibid., 635.
167
Roche, Daniel. Apparences revolutionnaires ou revolution des apparences, in Madeleine Delpierre, ed., Modes&revolutions, 1780–1804 (Paris, 1989), 30.
168
Ibid., 30–32.
169
Kwass, 635.
170
Ibid., 645.
171
Ibid., 650.
172
Mclaren, James G. A Brief History of Wigs in the Legal Profession. International Journal of the Legal Profession 6, no. 2 (1999): 241–50, 241, 245. https://doi.org/10.1080/09695958.1999.9960465.
173
Castiglione, Baldassarre, and Daniel Javitch. The Book of the Courtier: the Singleton Translation. New York: W.W. Norton, 2002.
174
Herrick, Robert. Delight in Disorder, in Hesperides, 1648.
175
Chevalier, Michel. Society, Manners and Politics in the United States. 1966, 341–42.
176
Stuart-Wortley, Emmeline. Travels in the United States: during 1849 and 1850. New York, NY: Harper & Bros., 1851.
177
Ford, Thomas, and James Shields. A History of Illinois from Its Commencement as a State in 1818 to 1847. Containing a Full Account of the Black Hawk War, the Rise, Progress and Fall of Mormonism, the Alton and Lovejoy Riots, and Ther Events. Chicago: S.C. Griggs & Co., 1854.
178
Wood, Gordon S. The Creation of the American Republic: 1776–1787. Chapel Hill: Univ. of North Carolina Press, n.d.
179
Willis, Nathaniel Parker. Walk in Broadway. New Mirror, October 21, 1843.
180
The Laws of Etiquette; or, Short Rules and Reflections for Conduct in Society. Philadelphia: Carey, Lea, & Blanchard, 1836, 136.
181
Chenoune, A History of Mens Fashion, 21.
182
Perrot, Fashioning the Bourgeoisie, 86.
183
Ibid., 89. (de Serieul, Eliane. Le Diable rose 3, no.4 (July 20 1862)).
184
Ibid., 91–92. (Despaigne, Le Code de la mode.)
185
Ibid., 99. (Comtesse de Bassanville, La Sciences du Monde.)
186
Ibid., 100. (Comtesse Drohojowska, De la politesse.)
187
Ibid., 129.
188
Ibid., 135. (Comtess Dash, Comment on fait son chemin dans le monde.)
189
Hollander, Sex and Suits, 41.
190
Ibid., 66.
191
Jones, Sexing La Mode, 82–83. 442.
192
Ibid., 77.
193
Ibid., 84.
194
Hollander, Sex and Suits, 66–68.
195
Rousseau, Jean-Jacques. Emile, or, Education, 1762.
196
Jones, Sexing La Mode, 98.
197
Ibid., 98. (quoting Mercier, Tableau de Paris, 177–178.)
198
Hollander, Sex and Suits, 68.
199
Ibid., p. 54.
200
Chesterfield, Philip Dormer Stanhope. Letters to His Son; On the Art of Becoming a Man of the World and a Gentleman. Place of publication not identified: Tudor, 1917.
201
Lunettes, Henry. The American Gentlemans Guide to Politeness and Fashion, or, Familiar Letters to His Nephews: Containing Rules of Etiquette, Directions for the Formation of Character, Etc., Etc. New York: Derby & Jackson, 1859.
202
Fox, George P. Fashion, the Power That Influences the World: the Philosophy of Ancient and Modern Dress and Fashion. New York: Sheldon & Co., 1871.
203
Burrows, Simon. The Chevalier D’Eon and His Worlds: Gender, Espionage and Politics in the Eighteenth Century. London: Continuum, 2010.
204
Rodriguez McRobbie, Linda. The Incredible Chevalier d’Eon, Who Left France as a Male Spy and Returned as a Christian Woman, Atlas Obscura. July 29, 2016.
205
Burrows, Simon. Blackmail, Scandal and Revolution: Londons French Libellistes, 1758–92. Manchester: Manchester Univ. Press, 2009.
206
Rodriquez McRobbie, The Incredible Chevalier d’Eon.
207
Kates, Gary. Monsieur DEon Is a Woman: a Tale of Political Intrigue and Sexual Masquerade. Baltimore (Md.): John Hopkins University Press, 2001.
208
Perrot, Fashioning the Bourgeoisie. (Le Moniteur universel, no 39, Ire decade de Brumaire, l’an.)
209
Brown, Mark. Portrait Mistaken for 18th-Century Lady Is Early Painting of Transvestite. The Guardian. Guardian News and Media, June 6, 2012. https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2012/jun/06/portrait-18th-century-early-transvestite.
210
Rodriquez McRobbie, The Incredible Chevalier d’Eon.
211
Ibid.
212
Ibid.
213
Zakim, Ready-made Democracy, 192.
214
Mirror of Fashion, vol. 12, no. 5. May 1850.
215
Zakim, Ready-Made Democracy, 200–201.
216
Ibid., 201.
217
The Lily, July 1851, 53.
218
The Lily, May 1856.
219
Rational Dress Society Gazette, No. 4, January 1889, 1.
220
Ibid.
221
Perrot, Fashioning the Bourgeoisie, 153.
222
Ibid., 156.
223
Debay, A. Hygiène Vestimentaire: Les Modes Et Les Parures Chez Les français Depuis létablissement De La Monarchie jusquà Nos Jours. Précédés Dun Curieux parallèle Des Modes Chez Les Anciennes Dames Grepues Et Romaines. Paris: Dentu, 1857. 170–171.
224
Flower, Benjamin Orange. Fashion’s Slaves. Boston: Arena, 1892. p. 15.
225
Perrot, Fashioning the Bourgeoisie, 154. 443.
226
Perrot, Fashioning the Bourgeoisie, 157. (quoting Verardi, Louis. Manuel du bon ton et de la politesse francaise: nouveau guide pour se conduire dans le monde.)
227
Rational Dress Society Gazette, No. 4, January 1889. p. 2.
228
Wilde, Oscar. Slaves of Fashion, Woman’s Dress, More Radical Ideas upon Dress Reform and Costume in Wilde, Oscar. Shorter Prose Pieces, Project Guttenberg (2000) (originally in the Pall Mall Gazette, 1884); Oscar Wilde, The Philosophy of Dress, New York Tribune, 1885.
229
Burke, Joanna. The Great Male Renunciation: Men’s Dress Reform in Inter-war Britain, Journal of Design History, Vol. 9, No. 1 (1996), p. 23.
230
Ibid.
231
Ibid.
232
Ibid., 24. (emphasis mine.)
233
Ibid., 26.
234
Sears, Clare. Electric Brilliancy: Cross-Dressing Law and Freak Show Displays in Nineteenth-Century San Francisco, Women’s Studies Quarterly, Vol. 36, No. 3/4, Trans- (Fall – Winter, 2008), 170–187.
235
Eskridge, William. GayLaw. 1999, 27.
236
Ibid.
237
Sears, Electric Brilliancy, 171.
238
Zakim, Ready Made Democracy, 201.
239
Makaris, Skye. This Difficult to Wear Skirt Helped to Break Down Class Barriers. Racked, December 7, 2017. https://www.racked.com/2017/12/7/16717206/cage-crinoline-feminism-class
240
Zakim, Ready Made Democracy.
241
Barnard, Malcolm. Fashion as Communication. Florence: Taylor and Francis, 2013.
242
Plunder Baskets. Dundee Courier, 24 Sept., 1862.
243
Petit Journal Pour Rire. Paris, 1856. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91oHNUtfM%2BL.jpg
244
Burke, The Great Male Renunciation, 30.
245
Ibid., 126.
246
Hollander, Sex and Suits, 116.
247
Ibid., 121.
248
Ibid., 140.
249
Fitzgerald, F. Scott. Bernice Bobs Her Hair. Saturday Evening Post, May 1, 1920.
250
Hansen, Dian, History of Men’s Magazines. Koln; London: Taschen, 2004.
251
Spivak, Emily. The History of the Flapper, Part 2: Makeup Makes a Bold Entrance. Smithsonian.com. Smithsonian Institution, February 7, 2013. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/the-history-of-the-flapper-part-2-makeup-makes-a-bold-entrance-13098323/.
252
Hix, Lisa. “The Great Gatsby” Still Gets Flappers Wrong. Collectors Weekly. Accessed March 1, 2020. https://www.collectorsweekly.com/articles/the-great-gatsby-still-gets-flappers-wrong/.
253
Soland, Birgitte. Becoming Modern: Young Women and the Reconstruction of Womanhood in the 1920s. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 2002.
254
Ibid., 25–26.
255
Ibid., 27.
256
Cohn, Gene. Woman Always Pays, Says Girl of 14 In First Flapper Tragedy: Over-Sophistication of Modern Girl Blamed for California Tragedy, Ogden Standard Examiner, May 1, 1922.
257
Actress Betty Blythe fearlessly discusses the grave dangers to which the new daring dresses’ expose women, Competitors Journal, July 1926.
258
Big Business Banishes the Flapper. Tusla Daily World, July 16, 1922.
259
Ibid.
260
Spivak, The History of the Flapper.
261
Bliven, Bruce. Flapper Jane, The New Republic, 1925.
262
Ibid.
263
Spivak, The History of the Flapper.
264
McCord, David J. The Statutes at Large of South Carolina, Vol. 7. 1840. (Containing the Act Relating to Charleston, Courts, Slaves and Rivers); see also, Sanders, Eulanda A. The Politics of Textiles Used in African-American Slave Clothing, Textile Society of America: Textiles and Politics. (2012).
265
White, Shane, and Graham White. Slave Clothing And African-American Culture In The Eighteenth And Nineteenth Centuries. Past and Present 148, no. 1 (1995): 149–86, 153. https://doi.org/10.1093/past/148.1.149.
266
Prude, Jonathan. To Look upon the Lower Sort’: Runaway Ads and the Appearance of Unfree Laborers in America, 1750–1800. The Journal of American History 78, no. 1 (1991): 124, 155. https://doi.org/10.2307/2078091.
267
White, Slave Clothing, 161.
268
South Carolina Gazette, November 5, 1774.
269
South Carolina Gazette, September 24, 1772.
270
White, Slave Clothing, 160.
271
South Carolina Gazette, August 27, 1772.
272
White, Slave Clothing, 155.
273
McNeil, Peter. Pretty Gentlemen Macaroni Men and the Eighteenth-Century Fashion World. New Haven, MA: Yale University Press, 2018.
274
White, Slave Clothing, 155.
275
Somerset against Stewart, 12 Geo. 3 1772, K.B. (May 14, 1772).
276
Ibid.
277
Pearne v. Lisle, Amb 75, 27 ER 47 (1749).
278
Quock Walker.
279
White, Slave Clothing, 156.
280
Id.
281
Prude, To Look upon the “Lower Sort”, 143.
282
Ibid., 155.
283
White, Slave Clothing, 150.
284
Ibid., 160.
285
Ibid., 156.
286
Ibid., 156–70
287
Prude, To Look upon the “Lower Sort”, 155.
288
Ibid.
289
White, Slave Clothing, 162.
290
Prude, To Look upon the “Lower Sort”, 155.
291
Ibid., 156.
292
Ibid.
293
Watson, John F., and Willis P. Hazard. Annals of Philadelphia, and Pennsylvania, in the Olden Time: Being a Collection of Memoirs, Anecdotes, and Incidents of the City and Its Inhabitants, and of the Earliest Settlements of the Inland Part of Pennsylvania: Intended to Preserve the Recollections of Olden Time, and to Exhibit Society in Its Changes of Manners and Customs, and the City and Country in Their Local Changes and Improvements. Philadelphia: J.M. Stoddart & Co., 1877. 445
294
White, Shane, and Graham J. White. Stylin: African American Expressive Culture, from Its Beginnings to the Zoot Suit. Ithaca: Cornell U.P., 1999, 114–118.
295
Ibid., 119.
296
Gordon, Taylor. Born to Be. Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 1995, 116–117.
297
White, Stylinn' African American Expressive Culture, 155.
298
Rosengarten, Theodore. All Gods Dangers: the Life of Nate Shaw. New York: Vintage Books, a Division of Penguin Random House LLC, 2018, 161.
299
Lewis, Hylan. Blackways of Kent. Chapel Hill: The Univ. of North Carolina Press, 1955, 54.
300
Ban on Freak Suits Studied by Councilmen. Los Angeles Times, June 9, 1943.
301
MacWilliams, Carey, and Matt S. Meier. North from Mexico the Spanish-Speaking People of the United States. New York, NY: Greenwood Press, 1990.
302
Cosgrove, Stuart. The Zoot-Suit and Style Warfare. History Workshop Journal 18, no. 1 (1984): 77–91. https://doi.org/10.1093/hwj/18.1.77.
303
Ibid., 81.
304
White, Stylinn' African American Expressive Culture, 249–251.
305
Amsterdam News, May 29, 1943.
306
Ellison, Ralph. Invisible Man. Brantford, Ontario: W. Ross MacDonald School Resource Services Library, 2018.
307
Pagan, E. O. Los Angeles Geopolitics and the Zoot Suit Riot, 1943. Social Science History 24, no. 1 (January 2000): 223–56, 244. https://doi.org/10.1215/01455532–24–1–223.
308
Esguerra, Clarissa M. Putting on a Zoot Suit: A Case of Race and Class in the First Truly American Suit. Vestoj, December 13, 2016. http://vestoj.com/putting-on-a-zoot-suit/.
309
Paz, Octavio. The Labyrinth of Solitude. London: Penguin, 1990, 5–6.
310
Baudelaire, Charles. The Dandy from The Painter of Modern Life (1863) in The Rise of Fashion, 2004, 192.
311
d’Aurevilly, Barbey. The Anatomy of Dandyism with Some Observations on Beau Brummel in The Rise of Fashion, 2004, 174.
312
Carlyle, Thomas. Sartor Resartus. K. Mc Sweeney and Peter Sabor, 1987.
313
Baudelaire, The Dandy.
314
Tenney Feels Riots Caused by Nazi Move for Disunity, Los Angeles Times, June 9, 1943.
315
Watts Pastor Blames Riots on Fifth Column. Los Angeles Times, June 9, 1943.
316
Himes, Chester. Zoot Riots are Race Riots in Himes, Chester B. Black on Black: Baby Sister and Selected Writings. London: Joseph, 1975.
317
Ibid., 199.
318
Ellison, Ralph. A Collection of Critical Essays, 1974, 67.
319
Frazier, E. Franklin. Black Bourgeoisie: the Rise of a New Middle Class. New York: Free Press, 1957, 176.
320
Ibid., 189.
321
Ibid., 167–168.
322
Moody, Anthony David. Coming of Age in Mississippi. New York: Dial Press, 1968, 238.
323
Ibid., 239.
324
Howard, Aaron. There’s a Deep Tradition behind Wearing Your Sunday Best. Jewish Herald-Voice, April 7, 2011. http://jhvonline.com/theres-a-deep-tradition-behind-wearing-your-sunday-best-p10854–147.htm.; see, e.g., Pinn, Anthony. Black Religion and Aesthetics, 2009.
325
Ford, Tanisha. SNCC Women, Denim, and the Politics of Dress. The Journal of Southern History, Vol. LXXIX, No. 3, August 2013, 639–40.
326
Ibid. 446.
327
Carmichael, Stokely, and Charles V. Hamilton. Black Power: the Politics of Liberation in America, 1967.
328
Carson, Clayborne. In Struggle: SNCC and the Black Awakening in the 1960s. Harvard University Press, 1995.
329
Cleaver, Eldridge. As Crinkly As Yours, in S.O.S. Calling All Black People: a Black Arts Movement Reader, 2014, 135–144.
330
Mainspring of Black Power: Stokely Carmichael, London Observer, July 23, 1967.
331
X, Malcom. The Autobiography of Malcolm X. London: Penguin books, 1965, 55.
332
Natural Hair: New Symbol of Race Pride, Ebony, December 1967, 137.
333
X, Malcolm. Not Just an American Problem But a World Problem. Address delivered in the Corn Hill Methodist Church. Rochester, New York, 16 February 1965.
334
Ford, SNCC Women, 643.
335
Makeba, Miriam. Makeba My Story. Johannesburg: Skotaville Publ., 1988, 155–156.
336
Allen, Robert L. Black Awakening in Capitalist America: an Analytic History. Trenton, N.J: Africa World Press, 1992, 142.
337
Wolfe, Tom. Radical Chic&Mau-Mauing the Flak Catchers. London: Bantam, 1971, 7–8.
338
Barthes, Roland. A Case of Cultural Criticism, Communications 14, 1969.
339
Report from Black America, Newsweek, June 30, 1969, 22.
340
Black, Joe. By the Way, Advertisement in Los Angeles Sentinel, July 2, 1970.
341
Back to the Hot Comb, Letters to the Editor, Ebony, November 1969, 15.
342
Rogers v. American Airlines, 527 F. Supp. 229 (S.D. N.Y. 1981).
343
Ibid.
344
Rich, Elizabeth. Flying High: What It’s Like to be an Airline Stewardess. 1970.
345
The Disney Look, Walt Disney World Resort, http://wdw.disneycareers.com/en/working-here/the-disney-look/ (archived June 20, 2015).
346
Looking Professional. Ritz Carlton. http://ritzcarltonleadershipcenter.com/2014/08/looking-professional-old-fashioned/ (as of April 6, 2017)
347
Bold, Kathryn. Corporate Cleanup: the well-gromming and manicured look at many O.C. tourist spots is no accident. Dress codes make sure workers’ appearances suit the image, Los Angeles Times, May 9, 1996. http://articles.latimes.com/1996–05–09/news/ls-2388_1_corporate-america (as of April 6, 2017).
348
Ibid.
349
Shipp, E.R. Braided Hair Style at Issue in Protests Over Dress Codes, New York Times, September 23, 1987.
350
Ibid.
351
EEOC v. Catastrophe Management Solutions, (11th Cir. 2016).
352
Klein, Rebecca. Tiana Parker, 7, Switches Schools After Being Forbidden From Wearing Dreads, HuffPost, September 5, 2013.
353
Willis, Kiersten. Kentucky High School’s Racist Hair Policy that Bans Dreadlocks, Cornrolls, and Twists Sparks Controversy, Atlanta Black Star, July 29, 2016.
354
Finley, Taryn. Parent Demand School Let Their Kids Wear African Head Wraps, Huff Post, Febraury 9, 2016.
355
Lattimore, Kayla. When Black Hair Violates The Dress Code, NPR.com, July 17, 2017. https://www.npr.org/sections/ed/2017/07/17/534448313/when-black-hair-violates-the-dress-code.
356
Cal. SB-188 Chapter 58, July, 03, 2019.
357
Cosby, Bill. Remarks at the NAACP’s 50th Anniversary Commemoration of the Brown vs. Topeka Board of Education Supreme Court Decision, Washington, DC, May 17.
358
Harris, Fredrick C. The Rise of Respectability Politics, Dissent, 2014.
359
Ibid.
360
Harris, Chris. Barack Obama Weighs in on Sagging-Pants Ordinances: Brothers Should Pull Up Their Pants MTV.com, November 3, 2008. http://www.mtv.com/news/1598462/barack-obama-weighs-in-on-sagging-pants-ordinances-brothers-should-pull-up-their-pants/
361
Bennett, Jessica. Fashion Police: Flint Cracks Down on Sagging, Newsweek, July 17, 2008. http://www.newsweek.com/fashion-police-flint-cracks-down-sagging-93033
362
Koppel, Niko. Are Your Jeans Sagging? Go Directly to Jail, New York Times, August 30, 2017; Siddique, Haroon. US town bans saggy pants, The Guardian, June 14, 2007.
363
Fulton, Malynda. Hahira passes clothing ordinance Valdosta Daily Times, March 6, 2008. https://archive.is/20130205103015/http://www.valdostadailytimes.com/local/local_story_066233535.html
364
Georgia City Gets Nearly $4000 from Sagging Pants Ban, Associated Press, September 27, 2011. https://www.reviewjournal.com/news/georgia-city-gets-nearly-4000-from-sagging-pants-ban/
365
Forsyth, Jim. Sagging Pants Mean No Ride on One Texas Bus System, Reuters, June 2, 2011. https://www.reuters.com/article/us-saggypants-texas/saggy-pants-mean-no-ride-on-one-texas-bus-system-idUSTRE7517LK20110602
366
Manuel-Logan, Ruth. Alabama Judge Slaps Saggy Pants-Wearing Man with Jail Sentence, News One, 2012.
367
Government Should not Dictate Clothing Styles, Says ACLU. ACLU.org, September 7, 2010.
368
Saggy Pants Ban by Louisiana Town Opposed by ACLU Newsmax, September 26, 2017. http://www.newsmax.com/TheWire/saggy-pants-ban-Louisiana/2013/04/15/id/499527/
369
People v. Romero, 44 Cal. App. 4th. 386 (2008).
370
Wollan, Malia Fresno State Loves Its Bulldogs, But So Does a Gang, New York Times, November 7, 2013. http://www.nytimes.com/2013/11/10/sports/ncaafootball/fresno-adopts-its-college-team-but-so-does-a-gang.html?action=click&contentCollection=Magazine&module=RelatedCoverage®ion=Marginalia&pgtype=article
371
Alarcon, Daniel. Guilt By Association. New York Times Magazine, May 31, 2015 48.
372
Ibid., 53.
373
Lee, M.J. Geraldo: Martin Killed due to Hoodie, Politico, March 3, 2012.
374
Exclusive: George Zimmerman breaks silence on Hannity’ Fox News Channel. July 18, 2012. http://video.foxnews.com/v/1741879195001/
375
Lee, M.J. Geraldo: Martin Killed due to Hoodie.
376
Morehouse University, MC Etiquette and General Behavioral Expectations. https://www.morehouse.edu/media/studentconduct/MC-Etiquette-and-General-Behavioral-Expectations.pdf
377
Gates, Elizabeth. Morehouse College’s Gay Travesty, The Daily Beast, October 20, 2009, http://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2009/10/20/morehouse-colleges-gay-travesty.html (as of 03/25/2015)
378
Gattuso, Reina, Jess Fournier, and Sejal Singh. Morehouse Bans Casual Clothes and Women’s Clothing. Feministing, n.d. http://feministing.com/2009/10/19/morehouse-bans-casual-clothes-and-womens-clothing.
379
Jaschik, Scott. What the Morehouse Man Wears, Inside Higher Ed, October 19, 2009. https://www.insidehighered.com/news/2009/10/19/morehouse
380
Roberts, Frank Leon. Morehouse’s Crossroads Has Nothing to do With Ghetto Gear or Cross Dressing: New dress codes shrouds a lack of academic and financial vision that threatens the foundations of the college’s pedigree, The Root, October 20, 2009. 448 http://www.theroot.com/articles/culture/2009/10/morehouse_dress_code_sparks_controversy_over_ghetto_gear_and_crossdressing.2.html (as of March 25, 2015).
381
Among the others were Paul Quinn College in Dallas which required business causal attire and the University of West Alabama, which in 2007 imposed a dress code after University President Richard Holland noticed a pattern of inappropriate attire: students wore cut-off shirts and caps to an orchestral concert, potential employers complained that students failed to dress appropriately for interviews; athletes didn’t bother to change out of uniforms and cleats before formal dinners. Guess, Andy. No More Mr. Saggypants, Inside Higher Ed, October 9, 2007. https://www.insidehighered.com/news/2007/10/09/sagging
382
Applebome, Peter. The Final Four, The New York Times, April 23, 2006. http://www.nytimes.com/2006/04/23/education/edlife/the-final-four.html
383
Starnes, Trevor and Chris Ross, Seersucker and Civility, The New York Time, May 8, 2017. https://www.nytimes.com/2017/05/08/opinion/seersucker-and-civility.html.
384
The Mean Girls of Morehouse. Vibe, October 11, 2010. http://www.vibe.com/article/mean-girls-morehouse (as of March 25, 2015).
385
Jaschik, What the Morehouse Man Wears.
386
Ibid.
387
Roberts, Morehouse’s Crossroads Has Nothing to do With Ghetto Gear or Cross Dressing.
388
Snyder, Deron. Morehouse’s Dress Code: Anything Goes, But Not Everywhere. The Root, October 15, 2010. http://www.theroot.com/articles/culture/2010/10/why_morehouse_has_the_right_to_enforce_a_dress_code.2.html
389
Ishizu, Shosuke, Toshiyuki Kurosu, Hajime Hasegawa and Teruyoshi Hayshida, Take Ivy, Hachette Fujingaho: Tokyo, 1965, 130.
390
Foster, Kimberly and Evelyn Brooks Higgenbotham. Wresting with Respectability in the Age of #BlackLivesMatter: a Dialogue. For Harriet, October 2015. http://www.forharriet.com/2015/10/wrestling-with-respectability-in-age-of.html#axzz3pEQswiSR
391
West, Cornel. Race Matters. Boston: Beacon Press, 1993, 40.
392
Givhan, Robin. The protesters are dressed as their unique selves – and that’s part of their power, Washington Post, June 2, 2020.
393
Friedman, Vanessa. The Dress Codes of the Uprising, New York Times, June 17, 2020.
394
Chotiner, Issac. Has Protesting Become Too Easy? Slate, May 8 2017. http://www.slate.com/articles/news_and_politics/interrogation/2017/05/zeynep_tufekci_author_of_tear_gas_on_networked_protest.html
395
Friedman, Vanessa. The Dress Codes of the Uprising, New York Times, June 17, 2020.
396
Head, Edith, and Joe Hyams. How to Dress for Success, 1967, 1.
397
Ibid., 10, 22.
398
Ibid., 38.
399
Regensdorf, Laura. ‘There Are No Ugly Women, Only Lazy Ones’: A New Beauty Exhibition Explores the Life and Legacy of Helena Rubinstein. Vogue. Vogue, January 12, 2017. https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/helena-rubinstein-beauty-cosmetics-jewish-museum-exhibition.
400
Head, How to Dress for Success, 46.
401
Ibid., 44.
402
Jespersen v. Harrah’s Operating Co., Inc., 444 F. 3d. 1104 (9th Cir. 2006).
403
Ibid.
404
Jespersen, Darlene. Case Is About Civil Rights and Sex Bias. Reno Gazette, February 4, 2004.
405
Guidos, Rhina. Fashion Checklist: No Blush, No Lipstick… No Job. Christian Science Monitor, July 18, 2001. (I was good enough to do my job for 18 years, says the bartender [Jespersen]. 449 Suddenly, I wasn’t good enough to do my job because I refused to look like a clown. (alteration added)).
406
Fagan v. National Cash Register Co., 481 F. 2d. 1115 (D.C. Cir., 1973).
407
Roberts v. General Mills, Inc., 337 F.Supp. 1055 (N.D.Ohio W.D.1971).
408
Aros v. McDonnell Douglas Corporation, 348 F.Supp. 661 (C.D.Cal.1972).
409
Baker v. California Land Title Company, 349 F.Supp. 235, 237–238 (C.D.Cal.1972).
410
Boyce v. Safeway Stores, Inc., 351 F.Supp. 402 (D.D.C.1972).
411
Willingham v. Macon Telegraph Publishing Company, 352 F.Supp. 1018 (Georgia M.D.1972).
412
Craft v. Metromedia, Inc., 66 F.2d 1205 (1985).
413
Ibid.
414
Price Waterhouse v. Hopkins, 490 U.S. 228 (1989).
415
Shamsian, Jacob. The Strange Loophole That Lets Hooters Hire Only Female Servers. Business Insider, September 13, 2015. http://www.businessinsider.com/how-can-hooters-hire-only-women-2015–9.
416
Steinem, Gloria. A Bunny’s Tale. Show Magazine, May 1963.
417
St. Cross v. Playboy Club, Case No. CSF 22618–70, Appeal No. 773 (N.Y. State Div. of Human Rights Dec. 17, 1971); Weber v. Playboy Club, Case No. CSF 22619–70, Appeal No. 774 (N.Y. State Div. of Human Rights Dec. 17, 1971).
418
Ibid.
419
Ibid.
420
Mccreesh, Shawn. Holy Cottontail! The Playboy Club Is Back Again. The New York Times. The New York Times, September 6, 2018. https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/06/style/playboy-club-gloria-steinem-lauren-hutton.html.
421
Chereb, Sandra. Casino Cocktail Waitresses Want to Give Show Rule the Boot. Las Vegas Sun, May 15, 2000.
422
Casino Cocktail Waitresses Fight to Wear Comfortable Shoes after Hours in High Heels Causes “Foot Damage”. Daily Mail Online. Associated Newspapers, June 10, 2013. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2338906/Casino-cocktail-waitresses-fight-wear-comfortable-shoes-hours-high-heels-causes-foot-damage.html.
423
McGinley, Ann. What Happened in Vegas?: Why are Las Vegas bartender now mostly women? Slate, March 26, 2013. http://www.slate.com/articles/double_x/doublex/2013/03/las_vegas_bartender_went_from_a_male_to_a_female_job.html.
424
Wiseman, Andreas. Cannes: Women denied Palais entry for wearing flats, ScreenDaily, May 19, 2015. http://www.screendaily.com/festivals/cannes/cannes-women-denied-palais-entry-for-wearing-flats/5088395.article.
425
Wiseman, Andreas. Kristen Stewart, Julia Roberts kick off their heels in Cannes, ScreenDaily, May 13, 2016. http://www.screendaily.com/festivals/cannes/kristen-stewart-julia-roberts-kick-off-their-heels-in-cannes/5103878.article.
426
London Receptionist “Sent Home for Not Wearing Heels”. BBC News. BBC, May 11, 2016. http://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-london-36264229.
427
Japanese Women Want a Law Against Mandatory Heels at Work. ENM News. June 4, 2019. https://www.enmnews.com/2019/06/04/japanese-women-want-a-law-against-mandatory-heels-at-work/.
428
Appiah, Kwame Anthony. The Honor Code How Moral Revolutions Happen. New York: Norton & Company, 2011, 89–91.
429
Caroso, Fabritio, Julia Sutton, and F. Marian. Walker. Courtly Dance of the Renaissance. London: Constable, 1995, 141. 450.
430
DeMello, Margo. Feet and Footwear: a Cultural Encyclopedia. Santa Barbara, CA: Greenwood Press/ABC–CLIO, 2009, 311.
431
Kremer, William. Why Did Men Stop Wearing High Heels? BBC News. BBC, January 25, 2013. http://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-21151350.
432
Ibid.
433
Semmelhack, Elizabeth. Shoes That Put Women in Their Place, New York Times, May 23, 2015.
434
Make Believe Shoes. New York Times, September 2, 1871.
435
Will Seek State Law Against High Heels. New York Times, December 5, 1920.
436
High Heels Prohibited by Proposed Utah Law: Limit of One and a Half Inches Set-Penalty is Fine and Jail Term. New York Times, January 21, 1921.
437
Stand By High Heels: Massachusetts Shoe Men Oppose Law Banning Them. New York Times, February 14, 1921.
438
Garber, Megan. What Does it Mean to Wear Heels? The Atlantic, October 23, 2013.
439
Ibid.
440
Rhode, Deborah. Step, Wince, Step, Wince. New York Times, October 18, 2000.
441
Chassie Post, Stilletos Are Power. New York Times, November 1, 2013.
442
Luxury Brand Status Index 2009: Footwear. Reuters, 12 March 2009. https://web.archive.org/web/20110602152627/http:/www.reuters.com/article/2009/03/12/idUS176686+12-Mar-2009+MW20090312
443
Milligan, Lauren. Louboutin Lover. British Vogue. British Vogue, August 14, 2019. https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/christian-louboutin-business-growth-and-celebrity-customers.
444
Christian Louboutin S.A. v. Yves Saint Laurent America Holding, 696 F. 3d. 206 (2012).
445
Perrot, Philippe. Fashioning the Bourgeoisie: a History of Clothing in the Nineteenth Century. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1996, 105.
446
Ibid.
447
Ibid.
448
Kim, Eun Kyung. Kentucky Student Violates High School Dress Code with Exposed Collarbone, Today, August 17, 2015. http://www.today.com/style/kentucky-student-violates-high-school-dress-code-exposed-collarbone-t39211
449
Ibid.
450
Ioffee, Karina. Tight Jeans, Leggings OK but Don’t Show Your Underwear: after an uproar last week Kenilworth Junior High principal clarifies the dress code change. Petaluma Patch, May 7, 2013. http://patch.com/california/petaluma/tight-jeans-leggings-ok-but-don-t-show-your-underwear
451
Digest of Education Statistics, 2015. National Center for Education Statistics (NCES) Home Page, a part of the U.S. Department of Education. https://nces.ed.gov/programs/digest/d15/tables/dt15_233.50.asp.
452
Research Brief, Student Dress Codes and Uniforms. Educational Partnerships, Inc,, 2009.
453
Bologna, Caroline. The Ridiculous Dress Code Rule That Made This Teen’s Outfit “Inappropriate”. The Huffington Post. TheHuffingtonPost.com, August 20, 2015. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/ridiculous-dress-code-rule-that-made-teen-outfit-inappropriate_us_55d34e04e4b0ab468d9e6afa.
454
Kim, Kentucky Student Violates High School Dress Code with Exposed Collarbone.
455
Mervosh, Sarah. A Houston High School Has a New Dress Code. For Parents. New York Times, April 24, 2019.
456
Farzan, Antonia Noori. A High School’s new Dress Code bans leggings, pajamas and silk bonnets – for parents. Washington Post, April 24, 2019.
457
Ibid. 451.
458
Staff, Inside Edition. High School Principal Stands by Creating Dress Code for Parents. Inside Edition. Inside Edition, April 26, 2019. https://www.insideedition.com/high-school-principal-stands-creating-dress-code-parents-52502.
459
Farzan, A High School’s new Dress Code bans leggings, pajamas and silk bonnets – for parents.
460
Dress Coded, Black Girl, Bodies and Bias in D.C. Public Schools, National Women’s Law Center, 2018 https://nwlc-ciw49tixgw5lbab.stackpathdns.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/5.1web_Final_nwlc_DressCodeReport.pdf
461
Canedo, Nick. Staten Island High School Send 2000 Students to Detention for Violating Dress for Success Policy. Syracuse.com, September 16, 2014. http://www.syracuse.com/news/index.ssf/2014/09/staten_island_high_school_dress_code_200_students_detention.html
462
Bazen, Jim. Principal: Dress codes keep girls from becoming “sex objects”. m.live, October 29. 2015. http://www.mlive.com/opinion/grand-rapids/index.ssf/2015/10/principal_dress_codes_keep_gir.html#comments
463
Ventre, Michael. Southwest reaction to skimpy outfit out of line. NBC News, September 7, 2007.
464
Dress Code Debate: 2nd Passenger Censored. CBS News, September 13, 2007.
465
Baker, Katie J.M. Cover Your Cleavage for Takeoff: Southwest Screws Up Again. Jezebel, June 14, 2012.
466
Berlinger, Max. If You’re On A Plane, Please Keep Your Socks On. Esquire. Esquire, March 28, 2018. http://www.esquire.com/blogs/mens-fashion/socks-on-plane-1113?click=main_sr.
467
Lowder, J. Bryan. Stop Dressing Like a Slob When You’re Traveling. Slate Magazine. Slate, September 9, 2014. http://www.slate.com/articles/life/a_fine_whine/2014/09/dressing_up_for_air_travel_in_defense_of_looking_nice_on_a_flight_or_train.html.
468
Editors, The Fashion. The Complaint: How People Dress on Planes Today. Esquire. Esquire, October 11, 2017. http://www.esquire.com/style/mens-fashion/a29463/airplane-style-2014/.
469
Southwest Airlines Co. Contract of Carriage-Passenger, 19th revised, May 9, 2017. Southwest Airlines, 16.
470
Rape Guilty Plea, After Acquittal: Man Gets Life in Georgia – Florida Jury Freed Him. New York Times, December 7, 1989.
471
Ibid.; Simon, Roger Rape: Clothing is Not the Criminal. Los Angeles Times, February 18, 1990, E2.
472
Edmonds, Ed M., Delwin D. Cahoon, and Elizabeth Hudson. Male-Female Estimates of Feminine Assertiveness Related to Females’ Clothing Styles. Bulletin of the Psychonomic Society 30, no. 2 (1992): 143–44. https://doi.org/10.3758/bf03330422; Terry, Roger L., and Suzanne Doerge. Dress, Posture, and Setting as Additive Factors in Subjective Probabilities of Rape. Perceptual and Motor Skills 48, no. 3 (1979): 903–6. https://doi.org/10.2466/pms.1979.48.3.903; Workman, Jane E., and Kim K. P. Johnson. The Role of Cosmetics in Attributions about Sexual Harassment. Sex Roles 24, no. 11–12 (1991): 759–69. https://doi.org/10.1007/bf00288211.
473
Vali, Donna, and Nicholas D. Rizzo. Apparel as One Factor in Sex Crimes Against Young Females: Professional Opinions of U.S. Psychiatrists. International Journal of Offender Therapy and Comparative Criminology 35, no. 2 (1991): 167–81. https://doi.org/10.1177/0306624x9103500208.
474
Richards, Lynne. A Theoretical Analysis of Non-Verbal Communication and Victim Selections for Sexual Assaults, Clothing and /Textiles Research Journal 55, (1991).
475
See Fla. Stat. Ann. ch. 794–022.
476
Hartley-Brewer, Julia. Emma Watson: Feminism, Feminism… Gender Wage Gap… Why Oh Why Am I Not Taken Seriously… Feminism… Oh, and Here Are My Tits! http://www.hindustantimes.com/hollywood/emma-watson-gets-called-a-hypocrite-by-feminists-for-topless-photo/story-bZwx6eix9xNLJF0xScbUIL.html.
477
Sutcliffe, Tom. Last Night’s TV: Katie: My Beautiful Friends, Channel 4; Bible’s Buried Secrets, BBC2: Beauty that’s not skin-deep. The Independent, March 23, 2011, http://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/tv/reviews/last-nights-tv-katie-my-beautiful-friends-channel-4-bibles-buried-secrets-bbc2–2249993.html
478
Female Academics: don’t power dress, forget heels – and no flowing hair allowed. The Guardian, October 26, 2014. https://www.theguardian.com/higher-education-network/blog/2014/oct/26/-sp-female-academics-dont-power-dress-forget-heels-and-no-flowing-hair-allowed.
479
Beard, Mary. “Too Ugly for TV” No I’m too Brainy for Men who Fear Clever Women. Daily Mail, April 23, 2012. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2134146/Too-ugly-TV-No-Im-brainy-men-fear-clever-women.html
480
Ibid.
481
The Court and Its Traditions. Supreme Court of the United States. https://www.supremecourt.gov/about/traditions.aspx.
482
Williams, Patricia. Tripping on Obama’s Coattails. The Daily Beast, January 9, 2009. http://www.thedailybeast.com/tripping-on-obamas-coattails
483
Lithwick, Dahlia. Law Suit: time to do away with morning wedding attire at the high court. Slate, January 8, 2009. http://www.slate.com/articles/news_and_politics/jurisprudence/2009/01/law_suit.html
484
Supreme Court Justice Ginsburg: Supreme Court Week. C-Span, July 1, 2009.
485
Whelan, Ed. Ginsburg’s Lace Collars, National Review, July 31, 2014.
486
Jamie Feldman, No One Can Object That Ruth Bader Ginsburg’s Collars are On Point. HuffPost, March 15, 2017.
487
Hess, Amanda. Female Lawyers Who Dress Too Sexy are Apparently a Huge Problem in the Courtroom. Slate, March 21, 2014. http://www.slate.com/blogs/xx_factor/2014/03/21/female_lawyers_still_must_dress_conservatively_to_impress_judges.html?wpisrc=hpsponsoredd2
488
Zaretsky, Staci. A Message from Career Services: Ladies, Please Learn how to Dress Yourselves. Above the Law, November 21, 2011. http://abovethelaw.com/2011/11/a-message-from-career-services-ladies-please-learn-how-to-dress-yourselves/
489
Zaretsky, Staci. Law School Sends Memo About Inappropriate Student Cleavage, Hooker Heels. Above the Law, March 19 2014. http://abovethelaw.com/2014/03/law-school-sends-memo-about-inappropriate-student-cleavage-hooker-heels/
490
Zaretsky, Staci. Summer Associates: Please Don’t Dress Like Fashion Victims. Above the Law, June 5, 2012. http://abovethelaw.com/2012/06/summer-associates-please-dont-dress-like-fashion-victims/2/
491
Baker, Katie J.M. Forget the Glass Ceiling, We Have Hemlines to Consider. Jezebel, June 8, 2012. http://jezebel.com/5916586/forget-the-glass-ceiling-we-have-hemlines-to-consider
492
Ibid.
493
Edwards, Stassa. The House Has a No Sleeveless Dress Codes for Women. Jezebel, July 6, 2017. 453.
494
Cauterucci, Christina. Kyrsten Sinema Is Not Just a Funky Dresser. She’s a Fashion Revolutionary. Jan 31, 2019.
495
Interview on file with author.
496
Richards, Alicia and Sarah Newton, Bishop McDevitt Girl Thrown Out of Prom for Wearing a suit. ABC 27, May 21, 2016. http://abc27.com/2016/05/07/bishop-mcdevitt-girl-thrown-out-of-prom-for-wearing-a-suit/
497
Vagianos, Alenna. This Teen Was Kicked Out of Her Prom for Wearing a Tuxedo. HuffPost, May 9, 2016. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/this-teen-was-kicked-out-of-her-prom-for-wearing-a-tuxedo_us_57309017e4b096e9f091ddfb
498
Blad, Evie. Teen Boys Wear Dressed to Call for Change to School Dress Code. Education Week, February 3, 2016. http://blogs.edweek.org/edweek/rulesforengagement/2016/02/teen_boys_wear_dresses_to_call_for_changes_to_school_dress_code.html
499
Mays, Mackenzie. Boys Wear Dresses at School to Protest Clovis Unified Dress Code. Fresno Bee, February 1, 2016. http://www.fresnobee.com/news/local/education/article57827983.html
500
Mays, Mackenzie. Clovis Unified Ready for a Legal Fight over Dress Code. Fresno Bee, January 27, 2016. http://www.fresnobee.com/news/local/education/article56972448.html
501
Peres, Jessica. Clovis Unified Enacts New Dress Codes Changes, ABC 30 Action News, April 7, 2016. http://abc30.com/education/clovis-unified-enacts-new-dress-codes-changes/1281579/
502
Paoletti, Jo B. Pink and Blue: Telling the Boys from the Girls in America. Indiana Univ Press, 2013.
503
Magiaty, Jeanne. When Did Girls Start Wearing Pink? Smithsonian.com, April 7, 2011.
504
City of Columbus v. Zanders, 25 Ohio Misc. 144; 266 N.E. 2d 602 (1970).
505
City of Columbus v. Rogers, 41 Ohio St. 2d, 161; 324 N.E. 2d.563 (1975).
506
St. John, Kelly, Henry K. Lee, Slain Newark teen balanced between two worlds: 3 charged in death of youth who was living his dream as a female. San Francisco Chronicle, October 19 2002. http://www.sfgate.com/bayarea/article/Slain-Newark-teen-balanced-between-two-worlds-3–2782669.php
507
Ibid.
508
Hoge, Patrick. Defense Calls Transgender Victim Guilty of “Deception and Betrayal”. San Francisco Chronicle, April 16, 2004.
509
Reitman, Garrison and Hanley. Trying to Understand Eddie’s Life – and Death. Los Angeles Times, October 20, 2002.
510
Calef, Zack. Double Standard in Reactions to Rape. Iowa State Daily, October 24, 2002.
511
Cal Assembly Bill No. 2501 (2014).
512
Vade, Dylan. No Issue of Sexual Deception, Gwen Araujo was Just Who She Was. San Francisco Chronicle, May 30, 2004.
513
Bettcher, Talia Mae. Evil Deceivers and Make-Believers: On Transphobic Violence and the Politics of Illusion. Hypatia, Vol. 22, No. 3, Summer 2007, 43–65, 54–55.
514
Reitman, Garrison and Hanley, Trying to Understand Eddie’s Life – and Death. Los Angeles Times, October 20, 2002.
515
Burciaga, Mathew. Anzi Comments at Greybull High School Stir Controversy. Greybill Standard, April 25, 2017.
516
Hollander, Anne. Sex and Suits. Bloomsbury Academic, 2016, 172.
517
Safronova, Valeriya. Women Who Prefer Men’s Wear. The New York Times, July 19, 2016. 454.
518
Friedman, Vanessa. Jaden Smith for Louis Vuitton: The New Man in a Skirt. New York Times, January 6, 2016.
519
Woolf, Jake. Jaden Smith Tell Us Why He Wore a Batman Suit to Kim Ye’s Wedding. GQ, June 23, 2015.
520
Scott, Joan Wallach. France’s Ban on the Islamic Veil as little to do with female emancipation, The Guardian. August 26, 2010.
521
Ibid.
522
George, Rose. Ghetto Warrior. The Guardian. July 16, 2006. http://www.theguardian.com/world/2006/jul/17/france.politicsphilosophyandsociety
523
Hijab and Belonging, p. 167.
524
Ibid., 165.
525
Ibid.
526
Fry, Naomi. Modest Dressing as a Virtue: What really behind fashion’s – and women’s – love of concealing clothes. New York Times, November 2, 2017.
527
Amer, Sahar. What Is Veiling? Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2017, 6.
528
The Habit.
529
Amer, What is Veiling?, 28.
530
Ahmed, Leila. Women and Gender in Islam Historical Roots of a Modern Debate. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Pr., 1992, 152–153.
531
Ibid., 160.
532
Amer, What is Veiling?, 135.
533
Ibid., 140.
534
Ibid., 136.
535
Falecka, Katarzyna. From Colonial Algeria to Modern Day Europe, the Muslim veil remains an ideological battleground. The Independent. January 27. 2017, https://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/politics/from-colonial-algeria-to-modern-day-europe-the-muslim-veil-remains-an-ideological-battleground-a7544786.html
536
Amer, What is Veiling?, 144.
537
Ibid., 56.
538
Mali, Malhar. My Stealthy Freedom: the Hijab in Iran and in the West. Areo Magazine, July 12, 2017.
539
Shenon, Philip. In Iran, a Glimpse of Ankle Can Bring out the Komiteh. New York Times, July 16, 1990.
540
Erdbrink, Thomas. When Freedom is the Right to Stay Under Wraps. New York Times, May 7, 2014.
541
Erdbrink, Thomas. Tired of Their Veils, Some Iranian Women Stage Rare Protests. New York Times, January 29, 2018.
542
Wamsley, Laurel. Austria Becomes Latest Country in Europe to Ban Full Face Veil. NPR, May 18, 2107. https://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2017/05/18/528948967/austria-becomes-latest-country-in-europe-to-ban-full-face-veil
543
S.A.S. v. France (2014).
544
Affaire Belcacemi and Oussar v. Belgium, CHR:2017:0711JUD003779813, ECLI: CE: ECHR:2017:0711JUD003779813, [2017] ECHR 655.
545
Friedman, Vanessa. What Freedom Looks Like. New York Times, April 13, 2016.
546
Rubin, Alissa J. Fighting for the Soul of France, More Towns Ban a Bathing Suit: the Burkini. New York Times, August 17, 2016.
547
Willsher, Kim. French Women’s Rights Minister Accused for Racism Over term “Negro”. The Guardian, March 30, 2016. 455.
548
Graham, Chris. Women Forced to Remove Burkini on Nice beach by armed Officers. The Telegraph, August 24, 2016.
549
Ibid.
550
Oulton, W. C. The Traveller’s Guide; or, English Itinerary. Vol II. Ivy-Lane, London: James Cundee. (1805). p. 245.
551
Bensimon, Kelly Killoren. The Bikini Book. New York: Assouline, 2006.
552
Magnanti, Brooke. Miss World Bikini Ban: why it’s no victory for feminists. The Telegraph, June 7, 2013.
553
McGarth Goodman, Leah. Burkini Swimsuits Speak Anti-Muslim Outrage – and Fast Sales. Newsweek, August 6, 2016.
554
The History of the Bikini, Elle, April 23, 2012.
555
Bensimon, The Bikini Book.
556
Caron, Christina and Maya Salam. Macy’s Courts Muslims With New Hijab Brand. New York Times, February 8, 2018.
557
Paton, Elizabeth. CoverGirl Signs It’s First Ambassador in a Hijab. New York Times, November 9, 2016.
558
Somewhere in America, #Mipsterz. Youtube. Sheikh Bake, November 20, 2013. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68sMkDKMias
559
Caron, Macy’s Courts Muslims With New Hijab Brand; Haris, Ruqaiya. D&G’s hijab rang is aimed at people like me – so why do I feel excluded? The Guardian, January 16, 2016.
560
Ghlamallah, Ezzedine. State of the Global Islamic Economy 2017–2018. https://www.slideshare.net/EzzedineGHLAMALLAH/state-of-the-global-islamic-economy-20172018
561
McGarth Goodman, Burkini Swimsuits Speak Anti-Muslim Outrage – and Fast Sales.
562
Chan, Mi-Anne. This Muslim Blogger Makes an Important Statement About Beauty. Refinery 29, November 9, 2015; Jung, Helin. Hijabi CoverGirl Nura Afia: More People are Smiling at Me since the Election. Cosmopolitan, December 9, 2016.
563
@LaloDagach, April 29, 2019.
564
@RitaPanahi, April 29, 2019.
565
Hollander, Anne. Veil of Tears: Why Islamic Women’s Headscarves and Less Anodyne than you Think. Slate, Aril 23, 1998.
566
Haris, Ruqaiya. D&G’s hijab range is aimed at people like me-why do I feel excluded? The Guardian, January 11, 2006. https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2016/jan/11/dolce-gabbana-hijab-collection-muslim-women-western-fashion.
567
Chan, Mi-Anne. This Muslim Blogger Makes an Important Statement About Beauty. Refinery 29, November 9, 2015.
568
@MalikObama, April 29, 2019.
569
@CrohnsBear, April 30, 2019.
570
Khan, Irfan Ullah. Modanisa – Is Hijab Fashion Even Allowed in Islam? [A Critical Review]. Happy Musim Family. https://happymuslimfamily.org/modanisa-hijab-fashion/
571
Ross, Tova. My Wig was Beautiful and Expensive, and Everybody Loved it – Except Me. Tablet Magazine, December 10, 2013. http://www.tabletmag.com/jewish-life-and-religion/151283/no-more-sheitel
572
Hayt, Elizabeth. For Stylish Orthodox Women, Wigs that Aren’t Wiggy. New York Times, April 27, 1997.
573
Ibid.
574
Josephs, Allison. Isn’t Wearing a Wig Over Hair (Especially if the Wig is Nicer than the Hair) Pointless? Jew in the City, July 15, 2009. 456.
575
Ibid.
576
Ibid.
577
Greenbaum Kasson, Elisabeth. For Devout Jews, a zone of privacy in the sheitel. Los Angeles Times, October 31, 2010.
578
Ross, My Wig was Beautiful and Expensive, and Everybody Loved it – Except Me.
579
Maheshwari, Sapna. Abercrombie’s Preppy Police Enforce Rule for Staffers’ Clothes, Internal Documents Show. BuzzFeed, May 2, 2013.
580
Petitioner’s Brief, EEOC v. Abercrombie and Fitch Store, Inc.
581
EEOC v. Abercrombie and Fitch Stores, Inc., 575 U.S. 768, 135 S. Ct. 2028 (2015).
582
Dvortezky, Shay. Oral argument on behalf of the Respondent. EEOC v. Abercrombie&Fitch Stores, Inc., February 25, 2015, 31.
583
Christian Louboutin S.A. v. Yves Saint Laurent America Holding, Inc., 696 F. 3d 206 (2d Cir. 2012).
584
Beebee, Barton. Intellectual Property Law and the Sumptuary Code. Harvard Law Review 123, no. 809 (2010).
585
Mastercrafters Clock and Radio Co. v. Vacheron&Constantin-Le Coultre Watches, Inc., 221 F.2d. 464, 465 (2d. Cir. 1955).
586
Hermes International v. Lederer de Paris Fifth Avenue, Inc., 219 F 3d. 104 (2d Cir. 2000) (emphasis mine.)
587
Hocking, Anne and Anne Desmousseaux. Why Louboutin Matters. Donahue Fitzgerald LLP. https://donahue.com/resources/publications/louboutin-matters-red-soles-teach-us-strategy-trade-dress-protection-2/.
588
Leibenstein, H. Bandwagon, Snob, and Veblen Effects in the Theory of Consumers Demand. The Quarterly Journal of Economics 64, no. 2 (1950): 183. https://doi.org/10.2307/1882692.
589
Gucci America, Inc. v. Daffy’s, Inc., 354 F. #d.228 (3d Cir. 2003.)
590
Tiffany Inc. v. eBay, Inc., 576 F. Supp.2d.463 (S.D.N.Y. 2008).
591
Stapinski, Helene. Dress Up the Loaner Jacket. New York Times, August 19, 2013.
592
Ibid.
593
Collins, Glenn. A Last Bastion of the Necktie Throws in the Towel. New York Times, January 27, 2009.
594
Legal Enforcement Guidance on Discrimination on the Basis of Gender Identity or Expression: Local Law No. 3 (2002); N.Y.C. Admin. Code § 8—102 (23). Legal Enforcement Guidance on Discrimination on the Basis of Gender Identity or Expression: Local Law No. 3 (2002); N.Y.C. Admin. Code § 8—102 (23). New York, NY, 2015.
595
Sullivan, Nick. Mariner: the Call of the Sea. Milan: Skira, 2012.
596
Baker, Christian. The True Story of the Blazer. The Rake, September 2019. https://therake.com/stories/the-true-story-of-the-blazer/?utm_source=mailchimpBAU&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=rstory_19092019_the-true-story-of-the-blazer&goal=0_d02442ae5e-ce2d5a5869–141350241&mc_cid=ce2d5a5869&mc_eid=f6678e86f9.
597
Carlson, Jack, F. E. Castleberry, Adrian Krajewski, and Ursa Mali. Rowing Blazers. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd, 2014.
598
Sullivan, Mariner: the Call of the Sea.
599
Antongiavanni, Nicholas. The Suit: a Machiavellian Approach to Mens Style. New York: Collins, 2006, 14–16.
600
Koh, Wei. Going Both Ways. The Rake, November 2015, 68.
601
Antongiavanni, The Suit.
602
Birnbach, Lisa. The Official Preppy Handbook. London: Eyre Methuen, 1981, 121. 457
603
Fish, Stanley Eugene. Theres No Such Thing as Free Speech: and Its a Good Thing, Too. New York: Oxford University Press, 1994, 273.
604
Bellezza, Silvia, Francesca Gino, and Anat Keinan. The Red Sneakers Effect: Inferring Status and Competence from Signals of Nonconformity. Journal of Consumer Research 41, no. 1 (January 2014): 35–54, 42–43. https://doi.org/10.1086/674870.
605
Ibid., 42.
606
Firmwide Dress Code. Goldman Sachs, March 5, 2019.
607
Kapner, Suzanne. Men Ditch Suits, and Retailers Struggle to Adapt. Wall Street Journal, March 25, 2019.
608
Levine, Matt. Be Careful Wearing Jeans at Goldman. Bloomberg.com, March 6, 2019.
609
Mihm, Stephen. Goldman’s Flexible Dress Codes Takes a Cue From Silicon Valley. Bloomberg, March 9, 2019. https://www.bloomberg.com/opinion/articles/2019–03–09/goldman-takes-page-from-tech-sector-by-ditching-business-suit
610
Schumpeter. Suitable Disruption, The Economist, August 4, 2014. http://www.economist.com/node/21610781?fsrc=scn/tw/te/bl/ed/suitabledisruption.
611
Kim, Queena. Silicon Valley has a dress code? You better believe it. Marketplace, January 28, 2014.
612
Ibid.
613
Kim, Queena. Silicon Valley has a dress code? You better believe it, Marketplace, January 28, 2014.
614
Holmes, Anna. Marissa Mayer and Vogue Couture in the C-Suite. Time, August 13, 2013,
615
Friedman, Vanessa. Mark Zuckerberg Adopts Obama’s Approach to Dressing. New York Times, November 12, 2014. https://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2014/11/12/mark-zuckerberg-adopts-obamas-approach-to-dressing/?hp&action=click&pgtype=Homepage&module=second-column-region®ion=top-news&WT.nav=top-news&_r=1 (as of March 17, 2017).
616
Tiku, Nitasha. Why Are Tech Workers So Bad at Dressing Themselves? ValleyWag, August 1, 2014. http://valleywag.gawker.com/why-are-tech-workers-so-bad-at-dressing-themselves-1613023344.
617
Love, Dylan. Soylent Is Like A Productivity Cheat Code – And More Observations From Two Weeks On The Meal Replacement Drink. Business Insider, July 14, 2014. http://www.businessinsider.com/soylent-review-2014–7
618
Ibid.
619
Friedman, Vanessa. Mark Zuckerberg’s I’m Sorry Suit. New York Times, April 10, 2018.
620
Chensvold, Christian. Miles Ahead: Not just a jazz genius, Miles Davis was also a sartorial chameleon, easily carrying off the Ivy League look and slim-cut European suits with ass-kicking charm. The Rake, October/November 2009, 54.
621
Horyn, Cathy. 006 ½ New York Times, November 16, 2012. https://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/11/16/size-006–12/.
622
Ibid.
623
Ibid.
624
McGregor, Jena. New Goildman Sachs dress code points to a sartorial double standard in the workplace. Washington Post, March 21, 2019.
625
Givhan, Robin. Oprah and the View From Outside Hermes’ Paris Door. Washington Post, June 24, 2005.
626
Farryn Johnson v. Hooters of Harborplace, LLC. Charge of Discrimination, Maryland Commission on Civil Rights, October, 21, 2013.
627
Cook, Rachel Elizabeth. You’re Wearing the Orange Shorts? African American Hooters Girls and the All-American Girl Next Door. Masters Dissertation, Georgia State University, 2011, 12. 458 https://scholarworks.gsu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?referer=https://duckduckgo.com/&httpsredir=1&article=1021&context=wsi_theses; Cook, Rachel Elizabeth. Black Skin, Orange Shorts: A Hooters Girll Narrative. Ebony, August 2, 2012.
628
Landau, Joel. Hooters Ordered to pay $250,000 to black waitress who was told she couldn’t have blond streaks in her hair. Daily News, April 8, 2015.
629
Cook, You’re Wearing the Orange Shorts?, p. 12; Cook, Black Skin, Orange Shorts: A Hooters Girll Narrative.
630
Friedman, Vanessa. Marc Jacobs’s Glitterati. New York Times, September 15, 2016.
631
Rosenstein, Jenna. How Will the Internet React to Marc Jacobs Dreadlocks? Harper’s Bazaar, September 18, 2016.
632
Bitette, Nicole. Marc Jacobs blasted for cultural appropriation after sending models down the runway with fake dreadlocks. DailyNews, September 15, 2016. http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/fashion/marc-jacobs-blasted-fake-dreadlocks-models-article-1.2794126
633
Santos, Fernanda. Arizona Fraternity Party Sires Concerns of Racism. New York Times, January 22, 2014.
634
Reyes, Raul A. Opinion: USA v. Mexico frat party a big mistake. NBCLatino.com, November 26, 2013. http://nbclatino.com/2013/11/26/opinion-usa-v-mexico-frat-party-a-big-mistake/
635
Cavaliere, Victoria. Duke Fraternity suspended after hosting a party slammed as racist, Daily News, February 7, 2013 http://www.nydailynews.com/news/national/duke-frat-suspended-hosting-asian-themed-party-article-1.1257624
636
Frat’s Colonial Bros and Nava-Hos’ and Mexicans and Americans’ off-campus parties investigated for racism. Daily Mail, November 23, 2017.
637
Gold, Hannah. 6 disturbingly racist and sexist frat party themes – from just this past year! Salon, March 4, 2014. https://www.salon.com/2014/03/04/6_disturbingly_racist_and_sexist_frat_party_themes_—_from_just_this_past_year_partner/
638
Davis, Scott. Jeremy Lin posts thoughtful response with a subtle dig after being criticized by former player for growing dreadlocks. Business Insider, October 6, 2017.
639
Rawlinson, Kevin. Marc Jacobs defends himself in dreadlocks-on-catwalk row. The Guardian, September 16, 2016. https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2016/sep/17/marc-jacobs-defends-himself-dreadlocks-furore
640
Safronova, Valeriya. Marc Jacobs Use of Faux Locs on Models Draws Social Media Ire. New York Times, September 16, 2016.
641
Timpf, Katherine. Capus-Wide Email Tells White Girls to Stop Wearing Hoop Earrings Because It’s Cultural Appropriation. National Review, March 8, 2017.
642
Dordick, Elliot. Pitzer College RA: White People Can’t Wear Hoop Earrings. Claremont Independent, March 7, 2017. http://claremontindependent.com/pitzer-college-ra-white-people-cant-wear-hoop-earrings/
643
@lin_chenhao, May 11, 2018.
644
@DengLeader, May 4, 2018.
645
Qin, Amy. Teenager’s Prom Dress Stirs Furor in U.S. – but not in China. New York Times, May 2, 2018.
646
Chen, Anne. An American woman wearing a Chinese dress is not cultural appropriation. The Guardian, May 4, 2018.
647
Carter, Ash. The Fascinating History of the Town Where the Tuxedo Was Born. Town and Country, January 1, 2012.
648
Friedman, Vanessa. Should Fashion be Politically Correct? New York Times, October 14, 2015. https://www.nytimes.com/2015/10/15/fashion/should-fashion-be-politically-correct.html 459
649
Benz, Matthew. Le Crocodile: how Lacoste Became the Preppy Polo of Choice. June 8, 2011, http://www.ivy-style.com/le-crocodile-how-lacoste-became-the-preppy-polo-of-choice.html.
650
Dapper Dan: The Hip Hop Tailor Of Harlem. Sneaker Freaker, November 8, 2017. http://www.sneakerfreaker.com/features/dapper-dan-the-hip-hop-tailor-of-harlem/#7.
651
Schneier, Matthew. Did Gucci Copy “Dapper Dan?” Or Was it “Homage”. New York Times, May 31 2017; Flammia, Christine. Gucci is Officially Teaming Up with Street-Style Legend Dapper Dan. Esquire.com, December 14, 2017. http://www.esquire.com/style/mens-fashion/a14432993/dapper-dan-gucci-store/
652
Adler, Dan. The History of Hip Hop’s Obession with Polo Ralph Lauren. Esquire Aug 16, 2016. http://www.esquire.com/style/a47568/hip-hop-polo-ralph-lauren-history/
653
Xxlstaff. Polo and Hip-Hop, an Oral History [Pt. 1] – XXL. XXL Mag, November 30, 2010. http://www.xxlmag.com/lifestyle/2010/11/polo-and-hip-hop-an-oral-history-pt-1/2/?trackback=tsmclip.
654
Ibid.
655
Adler, The History of Hip Hop’s Obession with Polo Ralph Lauren.
656
Ibid.
657
Ibid.
658
Gondola, Ch. Didier. Dream and Drama: The Search for Elegance among Congolese Youth. African Studies Review 42, no. 1 (1999): 23, 24. https://doi.org/10.2307/525527.
659
Ibid.
660
WITTE, Jehan de. Les Deux Congo. 35 Ans Dapostolat Au Congo français. Pp. xii. 408. Paris, 1913, 164.
661
Gondola, Dream and Drama, 27.
662
Ibid.
663
Sanders, Edmund. In Congo, Designer Cheek. Los Angeles Times, November 28, 2006.
664
Mediavilla, Hector. The Congolese Sape. http://v1.zonezero.com/exposiciones/fotografos/mediavilla/index.html
665
Weinberg, Anna. Paradise is a Fabulous Suit: for the Congolese Sapeurs, Haute Couture Isn’t Just an Abiding Passion, It’s a Religion. Colors Magazine, No. 64. http://sites.colorsmagazine.com/64/01.php
666
Lipovetsky, Gilles. The Empire of Fashion: Dressing Modern Democracy. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 2002, 79.
667
Asmelash, Leah. People around the world are dressing up to take their trash out as a way to enliven their self-isolation, CNN.com April 12, 2020.
668
Pope, Alexander. An Essay on Criticism: Part 2, 1711.
669
Hollander, Anne. Sex and Suits. Bloomsbury Academic, 2016, 192–193.
670
Pierre-Louis, Kendra. How to Buy Clothes That are Built to Last. New York Times, September 25, 2019.
671
Interview with Nick Sullivan, Esquire men’s fashion editor, April 30, 2018 (on file with author.)
672
https://www.thecrownact.com