Примечания
1
Norman Lebrecht, Who Killed Classical Music?: Maestros, Managers, and Corporate Politics (New York: Citadel Press, 1997), p. 40.
2
«Dress Improvers Downed», The Daily Telegraph (November 2, 1888), p. 2.
3
Princess Pauline Metternich, My Years in Paris (London: Eveleigh Nash & Grayson, 1922), p. 58.
4
Sara Elisabeth Hume, «Charles Frederick Worth: A Study in the Relationship between the Parisian Fashion Industry and the Lyonnais Silk Industry 1858–1889.» Unpublished Master of Arts thesis (SUNY Fashion Institute of Technology, 2003), p. 10.
5
«Empress Elizabeth [sic], Her Tragic Death Last Summer — New Light on Her Life», The New York Times (March 18, 1899), p. 23.
6
«Many Women in Mourning — Closing of Mr. Felix’s Dress-Making Establishment the Cause», The Pittsburgh Press (June 30, 1901), p. 15.
7
Exhibition signage, Reveal or Conceal?/ Dévoiler ou Dissimuler? (Montreal: McCord Museum/Musee McCord, February 22, 2008–January 18, 2009). See also www.musee-mccord.qc.ca/expositions/expositionsXSL.php?lang=1&expoId=47&currSectionId=2
8
Elizabeth Ann Coleman, The Opulent Era: Fashions of Worth, Doucet and Pingat (New York and London: Brooklyn Museum with Thames & Hudson, 1989), p. 29.
9
Standard Designer (November 1896), p. 78.
10
Lourdes Font, «International couture: The opportunities and challenges of expansion, 1880–1920», Business History 54:1 (2012), p. 31.
11
Coleman, p. 146.
12
Sandra Barwick, A Century of Style (London: George Allen & Unwin, 1984), p. 53.
13
Frederic Lees, «The Evolution of Paris Fashions: An Inquiry», The Pall Mall Magazine, vol. XXVII (May-August 1902), p. 116.
14
Font, p. 31.
15
Robert Forrest Wilson, «The House of Drecoll», Vogue (November 15, 1925), p. 34.
16
Paul Poiret, King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul Poiret, transl. by Stephen Haden Guest (Philadelphia & London: J. B. Lippincott Company, 1931), p. 93.
17
Font, pp. 35–36.
18
Ella Adelia Fletcher, The Woman Beautiful: A Practical Treatise on the Development and Preservation of Woman’s Health and Beauty, and the Principles of Taste in Dress (New York: Brentano’s, 1901), p. 410.
19
«Worth Allows Styles of the Days of Empress Eugenie to Suggest Leading Silhouette and Control Richness of Fabrics Used», The New York Times (March 19, 1916), p. X3.
20
Lady Duff Gordon, Discretions and Indiscretions (New York: Frederick A. Stokes Company, 1932), p. 205.
21
Lees, p. 121.
22
«Cheruit Features the Full Skirt, hich, It Is Prophesied, Will Be as Successful as Was the Pannier Skirt», The New York Times (March 15, 1914), p. X2.
23
Guillermo De Osma, Mariano Fortuny: His Life and Work (New York: Rizzoli, 1980), p. 138.
24
Quoted in Stephen Howarth, Henry Poole: Founders of Savile Row (London: Bene Factum Publishing, 2003), p. 90.
25
Major Gen. Sir Frederick Maurice, «Contrasts Signing with 187 °Ceremony», The New York Times (June 29, 1919), p. 3.
26
Valerie Steele, in exhibition brochure for Fashioning the Modern Woman: The Art of the Couturière, 1919–1939 (New York: The Museum at FIT, February 10–April 10, 2004), p. 9.
27
«Bedford Women Vainly Ask For New Style Long Skirts», The New York Times (August 21, 1922), p. 9.
28
«Revolt Against Long Skirts Starts Among Montreal Girls», The New York Times (August 30, 1922), p. 13.
29
Farid Chenoune, A History of Men’s Fashion, transl. by Deke Dusinberre (Paris: Flammarion, 1993), p. 156.
30
«Business: Haute Couture», Time (August 13, 1934), p. 55.
31
«Négligés Come Down to Dinner», Vogue (April 15, 1931), p. 65.
32
L’Offi ciel (May 1930), p. 34.
33
«The Dressmakers of France», Fortune (August 1932), p. 75.
34
«Miss June Collyer», Vogue (November 1, 1934), p. 77.
35
Fashions Art, 1:1 (Fall 1934), p. 16.
36
«The Dressmakers of France», Fortune (August 1932), p. 75.
37
Marjorie Howard, «Of This and That», Harpers Bazaar (February 1933), p. 59.
38
Michael Pick, Be Dazzled! Norman Hartnell, Sixty Years of Glamour and Fashion (New York: Pointed Leaf Press, 2007), p. 10.
39
«A Revival of ‘Lakme’», The New York Times (February 14, 1932), p. X7.
40
«London … War Notes», Vogue (November 1, 1939), p. 71.
41
«Soutenir le commerce de luxe est le devoir de tous les Français», L’Art et la Mode (May 1940), p. 11.
42
Lou Taylor, «Paris Couture 1940–1944», in Juliet Ash and Elizabeth Wilson (eds), Chic Thrills (Berkeley and Los Angeles: University of California Press, 1993), p. 130.
43
See «Disciplining the Body, Language and Style», in Eugenia Paulicelli, Fashion Under Fascism, Beyond the Black Shirt (Oxford and New York: Berg, 2004), pp. 57–67.
44
Robert Daoust, Fashion or ration: Hartnell, Amies and dressing for the Blitz, podcast link at www. nationalarchives.gov.uk/podcasts/fashion-or-ration. htm.
45
Ibid.
46
«Fashion is Colour», Vogue (March 1, 1941), pp. 49–56.
47
Daoust.
48
«The Measure of the Hem Line», Harper’s Bazaar (March 1947), p. 188.
49
«Fashion», Script (May 1947), p. 33.
50
Quoted in Richard Martin and Harold Koda, Christian Dior (New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1996), p. 13.
51
1939–1946 Special Operations Executive: Personnel Files — Edwin Hardy Amies, doc. ref. HS 9 29/2. www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/releases/2003/april28/popup/hs9_29_2a.htm
52
Hardy Amies, Just So Far (London: Collins, 1954), p. 54.
53
Bernadine Morris, «Valentina, a Designer of Clothes For Stars in the Theater, Dies at 90», The New York Times (September 15, 1989), p. B5.
54
«Coat and Suit Recovery Board, N. Y. Dress Institute, NRDGA, Union Offi cials and Others Pledge Cooperation», Women’s Wear Daily (April 8, 1942), p. 4.
55
Chenoune, p. 204.
56
«Styles for Men Far from Somber», The New York Times (September 24, 1942), p. 29.
57
Lee Rhodes, «Where Can I Go To Meet a Man?», Charm (May 1951), p. 136.
58
«The Well-Turned Look», Harper’s Bazaar (October 1953), p. 197.
59
«Suits with Their Own Winter Coats», Harper’s Bazaar (September 1953), p. 237.
60
«Essence of a Wedding», Vogue (May 1, 1950), p. 100.
61
«And So On into the Fifties», Vogue (February 1, 1950), p. 204.
62
«Paris Directory: Names in the News», Vogue (March 1, 1950). p. 5.
63
Ibid., p. 4.
64
Ibid.
65
«Paris Collections: One Easy Lesson», Vogue (March 1, 1954), p. 101.
66
«They See You This Way», Vogue (September 1, 1950), p. 155.
67
Ibid.
68
«From the Italian Collections, Casual Clothes», Vogue (September 1, 1951), p. 247.
69
«Italian Collections Notebook», Vogue (September 15, 1952), p. 154.
70
See, for example, «Italy Gets Dressed Up», Life (August 20, 1951), pp. 104–112.
71
Esquire’s Handbook for Hosts (New York: Grosset & Dunlap, 1953), p. 278.
72
Bernadine Taub, «Norell Says Conformity is a Drag on Fashion», Women’s Wear Daily (April 21, 1959), pp. 1 and 5.
73
«Fashion Extra», The Times (January 20, 1967), p. 13.
74
Marylin Bender, «The New Society, Young and Daring, Swings Into Style», The New York Times (December 14, 1964), p. 47.
75
Ibid.
76
Marylin Bender, «The Fashion Decade: As Hems Rose, Barriers Fell», The New York Times (December 9, 1969), p. 63.
77
Prudence Glynn, «A Throw-Away Line», The Times (February 7, 1967), p. 13.
78
Jessica Daves, «Paris: Yes-s and No-s in the spring collections», Vogue (March 15, 1962), p. 93.
79
«Top Halves», The Times (May 6, 1968), p. 7.
80
«Ever-rising skirts», The Times (January 6, 1967), p. 13.
81
«The Boutique Idea in America», Vogue (March 15, 1964), p. 122.
82
Quoted in Jean Stein with George Plimpton (eds), Edie: An American Biography (New York: Knopf, 1982), p. 296.
83
Gloria Emerson, «Balenciaga’s Techniques Art Still Unmatched», The New York Times (February 3, 1968), p. 18.
84
«Crahay’s First Collection For Lanvin Is a Success», The New York Times (January 30, 1964), p. 21.
85
«This Woman Is You», Harper’s Bazaar (September 1965), p. 250.
86
«Where is Paris Going?», Harpers Bazaar (March 1967), p. 165.
87
Carrie Donovan, «Dior Collection by Marc Bohan, Successor to St. Laurent, Is a Hit», The New York Times (January 27, 1961), p. 1.
88
Gloria Emerson, «Prettiest Clothes in Paris By Marc Bohan for Dior», The New York Times (July 30, 1965), p. 28.
89
Jessica Daves, «Paris light-struck», Vogue (March 1, 1960), p. 116.
90
Angela Taylor, «1964 — The Year When Everyone Had Fun With Fashion», The New York Times (January 1, 1965), p. 23.
91
«Sarah Miles», Vogue (August 1, 1964), p. 63.
92
Robert Alden, «French Are Welcoming New Italian Designers», The New York Times (May 12, 1962), p. 12.
93
Gloria Emerson, «Capucci: the Bravest Designer in All of Paris», The New York Times (July 31, 1967), p. 31.
94
Carrie Donovan, «American Collections for Spring», The New York Times (December 10, 1960), p. 16.
95
Stein, p. 296.
96
«New York: What a joy is Giorgio!», Vogue (April 1, 1969), p. 254.
97
«The lengths the wig craze can go to …», The Times (October 28, 1966), p. 13.
98
Prudence Glynn, «A wardrobe of lengths», The Times (October 14, 1969), p. 13.
99
Bernadine Morris and Barbra Walz, The Fashion Makers: An Inside Look at America’s Leading Designers (New York: Random House, 1978), p. 145.
100
«Modern Living: Karat Top», Time (May 19, 1975), p. 61.
101
«Belts and the Blue Denim Look», Vogue (January 15, 1971), p. 33.
102
«Modern Living: Let the Costume Ball Begin», Time (August 16, 1976).
103
Mary Russell, «Paris Signals: New Designers, New Ideas», Vogue (July 1977), p. 150.
104
Prudence Glynn, «English Collection», The Times (October 19, 1971), p. 13.
105
«American Fashion — The Movers», Vogue (February 1975), p. 107.
106
Morris and Walz, p. 145.
107
Ibid., p. 16.
108
Bill Gale and the Editors of Esquire Magazine, Esquire’s Fashions for Today (New York: Harper and Row, 1973), p. 188.
109
John T. Molloy, Dress for Success (New York: Peter H. Wyden Publisher, 1975), p. 230.
110
John Duka, «A Black-Tie Debutante Party on the North Shore», The New York Times (June 21, 1982), p. A17.
111
Jeanie Kasindorf, «New Uniforms for the Vice Squad», The New York Magazine (September 1, 1986), p. 11.
112
Jennet Conant, «The Heat is On», Newsweek (April 4, 1988), p. 55.
113
«Judith Leiber Off ers More Than ‘Mere Bagatelles,’ at the Jewish Center of The Hamptons, June 2011», www.leibermuseum.org/?p=665
114
Conant.
115
Mary Russell, «Vogue’s View: Chanel … Life after Coco …», Vogue (May 1, 1983), p. 230.
116
G. Y. Dryansky, «An Eye for Allure», Connoisseur (August 1986), p. 74.
117
Caroline Kellett, «Body Talks», Vogue (British edition, May 1983), p. 94.
118
Bernadine Morris, «From Japan, New Faces, New Shapes», The New York Times (December 14, 1982), p. C10.
119
«Vivienne Westwood: Shock Treatments», GQ (January 1983), p. 132.
120
Jay Cocks, «Giorgio Armani: Suiting Up For Easy Street», Time (April 5, 1982), p. 60.
121
Ibid.
122
Bettijane Levine, «In Milan, One Designer Captures Fashion Scene», Los Angeles Times (March 11, 1987), p. F1.
123
Morris and Walz, p. 76.
124
Bernadine Morris, «The Best Clothes in the World», United Mainliner (March 1980), p. 82.
125
Caroline Rennolds Milbank, Couture, The Great Designers (New York and London: Thames & Hudson and Stewart, Tabori and Chang, 1985), p. 398.
126
Morris and Walz, p. 68.
127
Harriet Shapiro, «Off Her Knees and Out of the Red, Sandra Garratt Strikes It rich with Mix-and-Match Multiples», People (June 20, 1988), retrieved at people.com.
128
1983 interview for ABC TV «Nationwide», quoted in Katie Pye: Clothes for Modern Lovers, exh. cat. (Melbourne: National Gallery of Victoria, 2007), p. 11.
129
Mary Russell, «Backstage, Paris/Milan: spring — summer ’84 in the making», Vogue (November 1, 1983), p. 304.
130
Camille Duhé, «A Head for Business», GQ (January 1983), p. 114.
131
Diane Raff erty, «The Many Faces of Yves: The Designer of the Half Century», Connoisseur (February 1990), p. 61.
132
Christopher S. Wren, «Clinton Calls Fashion Ads’ ‘Heroin Chic’ Deplorable», The New York Times (May 22, 1997), p. A 22.
133
Laura Jacobs, «The Millers’ Tale», Vanity Fair (June 1995), p. 140.
134
Courtney Weaver, «Paint it Black: London Goes Goth, Again», The New York Times (February 22, 1998), p. 421.
135
Mimi Spencer, «Handbag Mania», Vogue (February 1, 1998), p. 243.
136
Alex Witchel, «Vera Wang», New York Times Magazine (June 19, 1994), p. 25.
137
Quoted in I. Rosselli, 10 Years of Dolce & Gabbana (New York: Abbeville Press, 1996), p. 41.
138
Amy M. Spindler, «A Few Artisans Try to Blow the Socks Off», The New York Times (October 6, 1993), p. C12.
139
Anne Bogart, «The Antwerp Six», Elle (May 1988), p. 288.
140
Guy Trebay, «Death of the Fashion Groupie», The New York Times (August 22, 1999), p. FT108.
141
Cover of Women’s Wear Daily (December 4, 2008).
142
Andy Serwer, «The ‘00s: Goodbye (at Last) to the Decade from Hell», Time (December 7, 2009), http://content.time.com/time/subscriber/article/0,33009,1942973,00.html.
143
Sarah Tippit, «Jennifer Lopez, Hilfi ger Unveil ‘J. Lo’ Fashions», Puerto Rico Herald (April 26, 2001), http://www.puertorico-herald.org/issues/2001/vol5n19/JLoClothes-en.html.
144
Kelly Carter, «’Down With Love’ makes a fashion statement», USA Today (May 27, 2003), http://usatoday30.usatoday.com/life/movies/news/2003–05–19-love_x.htm.
145
Jennifer Mathieu, «Christina Aguilera August 11, 2000», Spin (November 2000), p. 80.
146
Mark Greif, «What Was the Hipster?», New York Magazine (October 24, 2010), http://nymag.com/news/features/69129/.
147
Carol Midgley and Stefanie Marsh, «The A — Z of Cool», The Times (October 28, 2002), p. 5 S1.
148
Bobbie Thomas, «Katie’s latest fashion steal: Tom Cruise’s jeans», Today Style Buzz (August 24, 2008), http://www.today.com/id/26330879/ns/today-today_style/t/katies-latest-fashion-steal-tom-cruises-jeans/#.VQeDR2TF-cI.
149
Ruth La Ferla, «Over the Shoulder, Over the Top», The New York Times (October 6, 2005), p. G1.
150
Catherine Shu, «Threading tradition and modernity together», Taipei Times (August 27, 2008), p. 14.
151
Robert Murphy, «The Latest from Paris», Women’s Wear Daily (February 24, 2005), p. 15.
152
Sarah Mower, «Alexander the Great», Vogue (May 1, 2011), p. 246.
153
Amy Larocca, «The Dapper Mr. Browne», New York Magazine (August 20, 2006), http://nymag.com/fashion/06/fall/19389/.
154
Elva Ramirez, «MCM’s Eastern Makeover — An ambitious South Korean businesswoman attempts to resurrect the faded luxury brand», The Wall Street Journal (March 13–14, 2010), p. W4.
155
New York Magazine (August 15, 2005), http://nymag.com/nymetro/news/people/features/12392/index1.html.
156
Cover of Glam (Malaysian edition, February 2008).
157
Maureen Dowd, «Haute Homeless», The New York Times (January 23, 2000), p. WK 15.
158
«Homeless chic? It’s so last decade», The Guardian (January 18, 2010), http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/jan/19/homeless-chic-is-so-last-decade.